Wine of the Month March 2007
                    El Puntido (Vinedos de Paganos),
                                 Rioja (Spain) 2002
                      

I was skeptical of this wine when I saw it on the shelf.  I am a big fan of traditional Rioja wines, yet I had never heard of El Puntido.  The label looks very artsy/avant garde, which is atypical for the Rioja region, which prides itself on centuries old traditions.  The folks at the Wine Connection in Del Mar were pushing the wine, and I did not know whether it was just some semi-bogus wine they got a good deal on, or whethere this was a new legitimate player in the Rioja arena.  The guy at the shop said it was really good.  I asked him how good, and he said "If you like nice Rioja, you'll like this: Guarnateed!".  After a brief discussion regarding the reality that nothing in life is guaranteed, he gave me his word that if I didn't like it, just bring it back and he'll credit me!  Well, I bought the bottle and took it home, and returned to the shop a few days later;  not for a refund, but to buy another bottle.  Yeah, it was that good.

The story behind El Puntido was difficult to sort out, but it seems that this wine is the product of a new winery, established in 1998.  Unlike Napa Valley where dozens of new wineries are established every year, it is uncommon to see new wineries pop up in Rioja.  "El Puntido", which is the only wording on the front label, is not the name of the winery;  it is just the name of the wine.  It is produced by a winery (Bodega in Spanish) called Vinedos de Paganos.  I do not believe they produce any other wines.  The owners of this winery are reported to be the Eguren family, who operate perhaps the most prestigious winery of the Toro region of Spain, Termanthia (makers of Numanthia, Termanthia, and Termes).  The family also owns several less well known Spanish wineries including Sierra Catabria, Senorio de San Vicente (both in Rioja), and Domino de Eguren, producers of several relatively obscure wines.

The 2002 El Puntido was a beautiful amalgamation of old school and new school Spanish wine making.  A dark ruby color, slightly darker than some Riojas gives way to a robust bouquet of fresh cut leather, smoke, anise, blackberry jam, and an exotic spice somewhat hard to characterize  (think saffron and sage).  The wine is medium bodied, and with abundant ultra-ripe fruit on the palate.  Tannins were concealed in the background, and the wine finishes with a smoky lingering flare.

I think this wine will appeal to fans of traditional Spanish winemaking, as well as those who like more "western styled" wines.  The wine is starting to get good press here in the USA, and I would expect the wine to quickly develop a following of devotees here in America.  Look for prices to slowly creep up in the years ahead.  Buy this wine now, and cellar it.  It drinks well immediately, but has the backbone to last a decade, I believe.

4 stars.  $35.00 at the Wine Connection in Del Mar.

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