Wine of the Month February 2007
           Chateau De Malle (Sauternes, France), 2003
                      

O.K.  I know what you all are saying.  How can a self-confessed red wine lover name a sweet white dessert wine as the Wine of the Month?  Well, it's simple.  The wine is really, really good.  Additionally, February is Valentine's month, and that means lots of sweets.  And nothing pairs better with sweets than a nice Sauternes.


For those unfamiliar with Sauternes, let me give you a primer.  Sauternes is a village in the Southern portion of the Bordeaux town of Graves.  Officially, Sauternes is part of Bordeaux, but for all intents and purposes, it has little in common with "Bordeaux proper", where elegant red wine blends and dry white wines are produced.  In Sauternes (and neighboring Barsac), sweet white wines are about all that is produced.  The predominant grape here is Semillon, which makes up 75-80% of most Sauternes wines.  Sauvignon Blanc is a minor component of these wines, making up usually less than 20-25% of the blend.  Some wineries add a little Muscadelle to the blend as well.  The wines clearly get better with age, with many of the wines not hitting their stride for 10 years or so from the vintage date.  In many instances, however, the wines can be enjoyed in their youth, as is the case with the 2003 Chateau de Malle.

The key to Sauternes has to do with it's geography.  The Ciron  and Garonne Rivers run through this area, and in the autumn, they give off a foggy mist that promotes the growth of the fungus "Botrytis Cinerea" on the surface of the grapes.  The Semillon grape is especially prone to this fungus due to it's thin skin.  Red grapes, with their thicker skins, are generally unaffected.  The Botrytis causes the Semillon grapes to shrivel and deform, and although they look rotten, they now have concentrated sugars, yet still maintain the natural acidity of the grape.  The process is referred to by many as "Noble Rot".  The high acidity of the grape juice is important, as it gives a refreshing tartness that nicely balances the sweetness of the sugars (much like in a fresh Lemonade).  Without the natural acidity intact, the wines would be sickeningly sweet.  When produced properly from a good vintage, the wines of Sauternes can be profound.  They stand up nicely without food as an after dinner drink, but are at their best when paired with something sweet, such as fresh fruit, or many dessert items.  I like to drink them with chocolate.  Sauternes wines are frequently sold in half size bottles (375 ml) which will usually serve 2-4 people, as serving portions for dessert wines are typically small.

Unfortunately, most Sauternes are not cheap.  Production is very small, as only a few good clusters of grapes can be harvested from a vine.  Harvesting the grapes is labor intensive, as they have to be inspected grape by grape on the vine by an experienced field worker who knows how much rot is too much, and how much is not enough.   Usually the harvest is done in several sessions, as the grapes mature at different speeds.  Lastly, the weather has to be good.  The fungus requires a long warm autumn to do it's magic, and if there is too much rain, the crops will be ruined.

Chateau de Malle is a very old winery.  They were given Grand Cru status in the 1855 Bordeaux classification.  Despite their excellent reputation, they remain one of the better priced Sauternes, although they are certainly not cheap.  2003 is considered to be one of the better years in recent times in Bordeaux proper, as well as Sauternes-Barsac.  Chateau de Malle has clearly produced a great wine for this hallowed 2003 vintage.  The wine has a rich golden color.  The boquet hits with notes of warm honey, fresh lemon, and tropical fruit.  Several flavors compete on the palate including pineapple, caramel, mango, and apple.  The wine finishes sweetly, but by no means cloyingly.  A first class effort.  I enjoyed the wine with some dark chocolate.

I score this wine 4 stars.  I don't know if it is available here in San Diego, but can be found on-line (or in person) at Hi Time Wine Cellars in Orange County (Costa Mesa), and at Premier Cru in Northern California.  They both sell it for about $20 to $25 for a 375ml bottle.

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