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                                                                Wine of the Month February 2008
                                      Chateau Kefraya
                            Cabernet Sauvignon Blend
                         Lebanon (Bekka Valley) 2002

                                                                        

                                              







First, let me apologize for the lousy label photo.  But let's face it, you don't come to this site for the art.  If I can get a better image, I'll put it up.

When most people think of Lebanon, the last thing they think about is wine.  This is unfortunate, because there are some very good wineries in Lebanon.  One can only imagine how much more robust the wine industry would be in Lebanon if peace could be restored to the region.  For those unfamiliar with Lebanese geography and climate, please do not assume that Lebanon is flat, arrid, and desert-like.  Such misconceptions are commonplace in those who write off Lebanese wines without tasting them.  Lebanon, in fact, has beautiful coastal areas and inland mountains.  The Bekaa Valley, where the heart of the wine industry lies, is actually situated about 3000 feet above sea level.  The climate there is good enough for grape growing that the vineyards for Chateau Kefraya are un-irrigated.  In other words, the grapes are growing naturally.

There are two main wineries that import wine to the Western world.  The oldest is Chateau Musar.  They make excellent wines that are capable of aging when properly stored.  The newer winery that exports heavily to Europe and North America is Chateau Kefraya.  Both are located in Lebanon's Bekaa Valley.   Ch. Kefraya makes several red wines, as well as some whites and rose's.  The so-called "Comte de M" is their most expensive offering, although it is difficult to find in the USA.  The red wine simply labeled "Chateau Kefraya" can be found in local wne shops and on the internet for $20-$25.  I purchased a bottle at the Harvest Ranch Market in Encinitas for $22.99.

Although I have had the Comte de M before, this was the first time I have had the regular Chateau Kefraya.  You don't see Lebanese wines on grocery store shelves too often, so when I saw it at Harvest Ranch, I couldn't resist the tempation to try it.  Quite frankly, I never thought the wine would be "Wine of the Month" material.  I bought it more for the novelty than for the bottle contents.  When I got home, I threw some chops on the grill, and opened the wine with a baguette and some cheese.  The wine had an intoxicating bouquet of mixed black fruit.  Although I did not know what grapes were in the wine at the time, it was evident from the nose that this wine was primarily Caberent Sauvignon, and the Cabernet seemed very ripe (almost Napa-ish).  In the background of the bouquet, however, there lurked some very "Un-Californian" scents.  Pepper, exotic spice, raw tobacco leaf and some smoked meat notes all came out with some coaxing.  I had thought prior to drinking the wine that the chateau used Bordeaux varietals, but the nose on this wine suggested a mix of ripe California cab with a dab or two or Rhone thrown in.  On the palate, the same Cab-Rhone dichotomy played out.  Lots of ripe blackberry and crushed plum, but mixed with smokey/earthy flavors.  The wine was excellent, but I could not figure out what the grape varietals were.  Fortunately, the back of the bottle contained the answer to the mystery.  The wine was 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Carignan, 7% Mourvedre, 7% Grenache, and 3% Syrah.  Regardless of the exact blend, the wine had a great nose, a sweet, fleshy,  fruit forward approachability, soft tannin, and a smooth finish.  I would be happy to drink this wine with a fine meal, or as a stand-alone "quaffer".  It will pair best, I believe, with hearty meat dishes.  The Rhone varietals will allow it to pair well with heavily seasoned or spicy dishes, or it can be paired with a straightforward cut of meat right off the grill.

I would recommend that all readers of this site give the wine a try.  It can really open your eyes to possibilities of producing excellent wines in some very unlikely locales.  The wine outperforms most California and French wines selling at similar price points.

4 stars.  The wine was purchased for $22.99 at the Harvest Ranch Market in Encinitas.





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